Hawaii, especially as the island of Oahu, long considered the birthplace of surfing. The first written description of nalu he'e - the Hawaiian term for surfing - is described in a diary in 1779 by Captain James King in March, three months after the death of Captain James Cook, credited with the first discovery of the Hawaiian Islands in 1778 :
"Twenty or thirty of the natives, each with a table long and narrow with rounded ends, set up jointly by the banks.Your first task is to focus on the top of the biggest wave of them with amazing speed led to the bank site. "
The old tradition of Hawaiian surf
Surfing permeated every aspect of Hawaiian society, including social structure, myth and religion. Native Hawaiians was surfing on long hardwood boards lying, sitting or standing. Hawaiians left older, evidence of their sport picturesque form of petroglyphsSurfer lava stone cut, and songs that tell stories of great surfing feats, some out in 1500.
As part of traditional Hawaiian culture, surfing has been included in the code kapu (taboo), the Hawaiian regulated all social interaction in prehistory. The Kapu system maintained a stratified society into classes and real common. These taboos extended into the surf zone and enter beaches and cliffs, where the Ali'i (chiefs) surfed, and thosewhere AI Maka dwarf (civil) enabled.
The death of surfing
the arrival of Christian missionaries in 1820, navigation, and imposed a puritanical work ethic, along with hula and "play" activities other culture faded after Hawaii. With the help of the Queen transformed Ka'ahumanu Hawaii (the big favorite wife of Kamehameha) old kapu system was overthrown and the beaches and the waves were free to all - but there was no one left to navigate150 of them for years.
The rebirth of Surfing
At the turn of the 20th century, surfing has experienced a renaissance, 3 men - none of whom Hawaii Waikiki Beach. Surfer George Freeth began attending with his incredible stunts surfing on the waves of Oahu. Around the same time, exposed to the writings of author Jack London sport to an international audience. Alexander Hume Ford helped establish the Outrigger Canoe Club in Waikiki, the first modern club is dedicated tothe persistence of wave riding. Freeth was brought surfing to California, sailed in an exhibition at the Redondo Beach in 1907.
Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, a Waikiki Beach Boy and Olympic swimming champion, was already known as a surfer and world record holder in the 100-meter freestyle, where he helped the club Hui Nalu found in Waikiki. Duke has taken the sport of surfing in Australia when he was invited to sail in Sydney in 1912.
In 1960, in particular in the U.S. - new materials,new technologies and design has created a new tab for new sources of interest to the ancient Hawaiian sport and surfing started the move in U.S. popular culture to create a genre section ends with the Beach Boys, and several popular films such as Gidget & Endless Summer. It has a multi-billion dollar industry, equipment, accessories, clothing surf, surfing, books, magazines, movies, music and travel adventure.
Big Wave OahuContest
The Quiksilver, Big Wave Invitational In Memory of Eddie Aikau is in the winter semester at Waimea Bay on the north shore of Oahu. Founded in 1985 to honor the legendary Hawaiian Waterman Eddie Aikau, this event brings together 24 of the most accomplished paddle-in big wave riders from around the world. "The Eddie", as it is called, extends up to 3 months - waiting for an ideal, the waves of 30 feet or more. The competition itself takes place in a day when conditions are justperfect.
Edward Ryan Aikau was a Hawaiian surfer and lifeguard, whose strength, knowledge, skills and courage are legendary. In 1978 Eddie was lost at sea, when left alone on his surfboard to save fellow crew members on board the sinking ship Hokule'a on her maiden name, only trip to Tahiti. Since then, "Eddie would go," Iceland has a song in Hawaiian ...
Oahu is still king of the surf
With water temperatures all year round70-80 degrees Celsius, more than 1,700 mapped web surfing, and some of the best waves in the world - from Waikiki sweet rolls on massive 40-foot body switches from the jaws of Maui and Oahu's North Shore - Hawaii, Oahu, and above all, remains a of the best places to surf on Earth, all year round.
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