Hawaii, especially as the island of Oahu, long considered the birthplace of surfing. The first written description of nalu he'e - the Hawaiian term for surfing - is described in a diary entry in 1779 by Captain James King in March, three months after the death of Captain James Cook, credited with the first discovery of the Hawaiian Islands in 1778:
"Twenty or thirty of the natives, each of a long narrow board, rounded at the ends, set up jointly by the banks.Your first job is to top the largest increase, with which they are driven with amazing rapidity toward the shore site. "
The ancient tradition of Hawaiian surfing
Surfing permeated every aspect of Hawaiian society, including social structure, myths and religion. Native Hawaiians were surfing on long boards, hardwood lying, sitting or standing. Hawaiians left older, evidence of their sport in the form of picturesque stone carvings ofSurfer lava stone sliced, and the songs, tell stories of great surfing feats, by some, 1500.
As part of traditional Hawaiian culture, surfing has been included in the code kapu (taboo), provides that all social interactions in prehistoric Hawaii. The Kapu system maintained a society that was stratified into classes Royal and municipalities. These taboos extended into the surf zone, stating beaches and cliffs, where the ali'i (surfing heads), andwhere AI Maka dwarf (Civic) were not allowed.
The death of Surfing
After the arrival of Christian missionaries in 1820, navigation imposed when a work ethic and, with hula and other "play" activity of a puritan culture faded from Hawaii. With the help of the equivalent of Hawaiian Queen Ka ' ahumanu (favored Kamehameha the Great's wife), the old kapu system was overthrown and the beaches and the waves were free to all - but there was no link150 of them for years.
The rebirth of Surfing
At the turn of the 20th century, surfing experienced a rebirth, thanks to three men - none of which was Hawaii. Surfer George Freeth began attending with his incredible stunts surfing on the waves of Oahu Waikiki Beach. At the same time, exposed to the writings of author Jack London sport to an international audience. Alexander Hume Ford helped the Outrigger Canoe Club in Waikiki, the first club dedicated to modernthe persistence of wave riding. Freeth was brought surfing to California, where he sailed in an exhibition in Redondo Beach in 1907.
Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, a Waikiki Beach Boy and Olympic swimming champion, was a surfer and world record holder in the 100 meter freestyle, famous when he helped found the Hui Nalu Club Waikiki. Duke took the sport of surfing when he was invited to Australia to surf in Sydney in 1912.
In 1960, particularly in the U.S. - new materials,new technologies and design the new Council has created a new wave of interest in the Hawaiian surf sports old and began to enter American popular culture in the creation of a separate genre of music culminate in the Beach Boys and other popular films such as Gidget and Endless Summer. E 'became a multi-billion dollar industry, which includes equipment, accessories, surfwear, surfing, books, magazines, films, music and adventure travel.
Big Wave OahuCompetition
The Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational In Memory of Eddie Aikau, takes place each winter at Waimea Bay on the North Shore of Oahu. Created in 1985 to honor legendary Hawaiian Eddie Aikau Waterman, this event brings together 24 of the most successful paddle-in big wave riders from around the world. "The Eddie, as it is called, covers up to three months - wait for perfect conditions, waves of 30 feet-plus. The competition itself takes place in a day when conditions are simplyperfect.
Edward Ryan Aikau was a Hawaiian surfer and lifeguard, whose strength, knowledge, skills and courage are legendary. In 1978, Eddie was at sea when he lost alone on his surfboard to save fellow crew members aboard the sinking ship Hokule'a on her maiden name, solo trip to Tahiti. Since then, "Eddie would go" has become a figure of speech common throughout the Hawaiian Islands ...
Oahu is still king of the surf
With water temperatures year-round70-80 degrees F, more than 1,700 Web sites mapped surfing, and some of the best waves in the world - from sweet to switch roles Waikiki solid body 40 feet from Jaws in Maui and the North Shore of Oahu - Hawaii, especially Oahu, a link remains the best spot on earth, all year round.
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